Porsche 911 996 Buyers Guide 1998 – 2005

The Shift From Air-Cooled to Water-Cooled 911

Back in the nineties, with growing emission requirements being placed on engine manufacturers, Porsche was forced to move the 911 from the 1940’s air cooled technology to a water cooled, efficient, and emission compliant engine. The result was the 911 996 with its water cooled M96 flat 6 engines.

Along with its cousin, the Boxster, the 996 version of the 911 launched Porsche down a completely different path – one that subsequently includes SUVs, electric cars, and sedans.

The 911 996 was such a departure from the original air-cooled technology that it caused a major division in opinion amongst 911 expertise that exists right up to today. The 996 was nothing like the norm Porsche techs were used to – like switching from right hand drive to left hand drive. This is part of the reason why the new 996 cars came in for so much criticism and misunderstanding. To this day, there is a distinct difference between an air-cooled 911 and a water-cooled 911 Porsche expert.

As shop owner recently told us he only deals with real Porsche models e.g. air-cooled and not modern toys! It’s still there 25 years later!

Originally, a 3.4L flat 6 M96 engine was fitted to the new 996 Carrera in 1998. Subsequently, the engine was revised in several ways and improved upon to be a 3.6L before reaching the end of its production by late 2005. Porsche produced various flavors of the 996 Carrera – cabriolet, 4wd, S etc. all of which used an M96 engine. The Turbo, GT2 and GT3 versions of the 996 use an entirely different engine as discussed below.

Production of the 996 ended in 2005 with 175,262 models being produced in total.

The poor 996 came in for a significant amount of criticism. The shape of the headlights, engine problems, too long a shift throw, low quality plastics, lawsuits, and over ambitious maintenance intervals caused the 996 to be subjected to a good deal of misunderstanding. Most of the data disclosed suggests less than 10% had real mechanical issues or failures of any kind. However, longer term ownership points to inherent design issues with the engine that need to be considered. Other than that, the 996 is extremely solid and almost as raw a Porsche as the older air-cooled models.

The first-generation Porsche 911 Carrera 996 is now more than 25 years old. The 996 has been driven, raced, broken, dissembled and put back together again many times. As a result, independent specialists have developed extensive knowledge of these cars’ common mechanical issues. Many examples on the market today have already had the necessary work done to address those known problems.

Everything else has! There was a time, not too long ago, when the last air-cooled cars (993 chassis) were cheap to buy. Now it’s easier to find rocking horse poop than a low-cost 993! So, is this possible with the 996? It’s certainly true for the 996 Turbo, GT2, and GT3. Prices on these models have sprung up and continue to rise. Naturally, these models do not utilize the M96 engine fitted to the standard Carrera. It’s the M96 engine that seems to develop the majority of the problems and routinely receives the critical press. A rising tide floats all boats, so eventually the original 996 will have a classic appeal and should appreciate – the question is how long a wait?

It should be. Looking out into the future, we can see a generation that will not know cars with internal combustion engines or manual transmissions. The joys of a loud revving exhaust will be unknown! With the change to all-electric cars, the 996 will be the first classic of a dying breed. Porsche switched engine production to all turbo for the later 991 cars, so only a relatively short window of normally aspirated flat 6 water-cooled engines exists. The 996 is the first version of that era. Cars from the 70s you know were junk at the time make big money in auctions. Likely the 996 will become a modern classic too. One must just be patient.

• Entry-level base Carreras from $20K – $40K condition-dependent
• S models, 4S, and rare color or low-mileage cars fetching premiums
• Turbo 996 range $45K–$70K+ depending on condition
• GT3/GT2 increasingly rare, collectible, and expensive $100K–$200K+
• Investment potential and growing appreciation for clean, unmodified examples

How to Find a Good 996

Most of the good examples of the 996 are going to end up at a Porsche sales specialist we list on our resource page. These cars will attract a premium price, might be on consignment sale, or at a quality auction site when they become available.

You might be lucky. Sometimes, you’ll find an excellent example or a diamond in the rough in an unusual spot. Nobody is going to sell a Porsche cheap, unless 1) they incorrectly perceive problems with the car or 2) there are real problems with the car or 3) they have no clue! Your job is always to be better informed than the seller.

911 Carrera 996.1 1999 – 2001

• 3.4L flat 6 M96 engine
• 2WD or 4WD
• Coupe or cabriolet
• Narrow body

911 Carrera – 996.2 2001 – 2004

• 3.6L flat 6 M96 engine
• Coupe, cabriolet, targa
• Narrow body

911 Carrera 4 or 4S – 996.2 2002 – 2005

• 3.6L flat 6 M96 engine
• All-wheel drive
• Coupe or cabriolet
• Wide body, upgraded brakes and suspension

911 Turbo – 996.2 2002 – 2005

• 3.6L twin-turbo Mezger engine
• All-wheel drive
• Coupe or cabriolet
• X50 and S performance versions

GT3 – 996.2 2002 – 2005

• 3.6L Mezger engine
• Lightweight, designed for racing

GT2 – 996.2 2002 – 2005

• 3.6L twin-turbo Mezger engine
• Track car designed for GT2 racing series
• Rare and collectible

The main noticeable differences between the original 996 and the second version are:

• Engine upgrade: 3.4L → 3.6L more power and torque
• Change to single row IMS bearing
• Wider body and improved front and rear bumpers
• Improved interior design with better materials
• Stiffer body and improved handling
• Revised headlights
• More refined electronics
• Improved HVAC

Engine Displacement and Power Output

996.1 Carrera M96 01/02 3.4L 296 hp

996.2 Carrera M96 03 3.6L 320 hp

3.4L M96 01/02 Features

• Power output – 296HP
• Cylinder head – early design with some coolant and oil flow weakness
• Engine timing – VarioCam Intake valve timing
• Bore x Stroke – 96mm x 78mm
• IMS Bearing – Dual row less failure prone
• Oil system – prone to foaming or aeration
• Cooling system – thermostat and water pump issues

3.6L M96 03 Features

• Power output – 320HP
• Cylinder head – revised design improved coolant and oil flow
• Engine timing – VarioCam Plus System
• Bore x Stroke – 96mm x 82.8mm
• IMS Bearing – Single row failure prone
• Oil system – Improved oil return and sump design
• Cooling system – Improved flow and thermostat control

The Mezger engine in the Porsche 996 is one of the most revered powerplants in Porsche history—robust, race-derived, and largely free of the issues that plagued the standard M96 engines in base 996 models. Named after legendary Porsche engineer Hans Mezger, this engine is a dry-sump, motorsport-derived flat-six, originally based on the design used in the Le Mans-winning GT1 race car.

• 996 Turbo M96/70 3.6L Twin-turbo, AWD
• 996 GT2 M96/70S 3.6L Twin-Turbo  RWD
• 996 GT3 Mk1  M96/76 3.6L   Normally aspirated version, track-focused
• 996 GT3 Mk2  M96/79 3.6L   Normally aspirated version updated with more power

• Dry-sump lubrication (external oil tank): Prevents oil starvation under hard cornering.
• Split-case crank-case design – Inherently stronger than the cast-in-place M96 case.
• No IMS bearing issues – The IMS is part of the crankshaft drive in the Mezger, not a separate, failure-prone component.
• Motorsport pedigree – Direct lineage from Porsche’s race GT1 engine architecture.

The Mezger is highly reliable, especially compared to the standard M96 engines. It has none of the IMS or bore scoring issues found with the standard 996 cars. However, replacement and rebuilds for the Mezger engine are expensive. The good news is, well cared for street cars, such as the 911 Turbo 996, major engine work is not normally due until after 150K

Manual Transmission:

• G96/00 6-speed Early 3.4L Carrera RWD  996.1 Carrera
• G96/01 6-speed AWD version of G96/00 996.1 Carrera 4
• G96/03 6-speed Updated version for 3.6L RWD 996.2 Carrera
• G96/05 6-speed Updated AWD version 996.2 Carrera 4 / 4S / Targa
• G96/50 6-speed Heavy-duty for Turbo engine 996 Turbo, 996 GT2
• G96/90 6-speed Track-ready Mezger setup 996 GT3

Automatic Transmission:

• A96/00 5-speed Tiptronic S Mercedes-sourced   – 996.1 Carrera / Carrera 4
• A96/01 5-speed Updated for 3.6L engine – 996.2 Carrera / Carrera 4 / 4S / Targa
• A96/50 5-speed Tiptronic S for Turbo – 996 Turbo

996 Timing Chain Wear

Timing chain issues commonly affect the M96 01 and 02 engines in the early cars. It’s important to check the camshaft to crankshaft timing deviation at a PPI. Wear in the timing system will show up as a deviation angle in the cam to crank measurement. Replacing the chain, tensioners and guides typically resolves the problem. This is an engine out and expensive job. Most older models have already completed this work – check the history.

Higher Mileage Cars

Wear in the timing chain, guides and tensioners will eventually affect all the M96 engines, so the higher the mileage, the more likely this issue will arise.

996 M96 IMS Bearing Failure

Early M96 3.4L engine cars built up to 2000 are less susceptible to failure than the later 3.6L cars. The early cars were fitted with a dual row bearing that was more reliable than the later single row bearing that was fitted to the M96 engine after 2000.

Failure of the IMS is expensive and usually results in engine replacement. Most diligent owners opted to preempt the failure and replace the Porsche single row bearing with a dual row version. Cars that have had the IMS bearing replaced have a higher value than ones that haven’t.

More detail on the IMS bearing failure in our common problems section.

996 Engine Rear Main Seal (RMS) Leak

There are some common areas where oil leaks occur. Most are easily fixed and are part of the normal wear process. One of the most common areas for an oil leak is the rear main seal. Again, see our common problems page for more information. Oil leaks should not be a barrier to purchase, but they should be considered in terms of the purchase price and the cost of the repair.

Leaking rear main seals can be signs of other issues and should be thoroughly investigated. On manual cars, a leaking rear main seal can cause significant damage to the clutch and flywheel assembly and adds to the cost of replacement.

996 Overheating – Cracked Cylinder Liner

The 996 Carrera’s M96 engine uses one-piece cylinder liners, which are prone to cracking. A cracked liner typically causes coolant loss and engine overheating. Sometimes, symptoms can take a good amount of time with the engine running to appear.

Quick check:

• Start with the engine cold. Note the coolant level. Mark the level on the coolant reservoir with a sharpie.
• Drive for 30 minutes.
• Let the car idle — the radiator fans should kick in and the engine temp should remain stable. If it climbs uncontrollably, stop.
• Shut off the engine and recheck the coolant level. It should rise after the drive and then slowly return toward the cold level previously noted.
• If the level has dropped or stayed low, it may indicate internal coolant loss from a cracked liner.
• You might smell coolant in the exhaust when the engine runs.

This isn’t a definitive test as external leaks can mimic these symptoms. However, any post-drive coolant loss should be investigated thoroughly.

996 M96 Cylinder Bore Scoring

Checking for bore scoring should be completed at a thorough PPI. The least invasive way to check for cylinder scoring is to lift the car and listen from underneath with the engine running. A normal M96 engine makes a consistent ticking sound from the valvetrain and exhaust headers.

What You Don’t Want to Hear

A nasty rhythmic knock — not a tick — usually from the passenger-side cylinder bank. This knock indicates piston skirt contact with a scored cylinder wall. This is caused by wear that allows the piston to wobble at the bottom of its stroke. Left unchecked, it leads to catastrophic failure and an engine rebuild.

Scoring often isn’t visible without engine teardown, but may be spotted using a borescope through the spark plug tube or more reliably by removing the oil pan and viewing the cylinders from below.

However, during a PPI most sellers will not allow you to remove the oil pan and inspect the cylinders.

Early Signs of Cylinder Bore Scoring

One of the potential early signs for significant engine problems is a mismatch in the sooty deposits inside the exhaust tailpipes and smoke from the exhaust at cold start. These signs usually show a difference in the running efficiency of one bank of cylinders versus the other and further investigation into the cause is necessary. A 996 with one black sooty tail pipe and one clean tail pipe is not a car to buy. If you hear the knock, have the mismatched tail pipes, or clouds of smoke at cold start, getting the car at zero purchase price will add $25K+ to fix it!

996 Air Oil Separator (AOS) Failure

The AOS removes oil from crankcase gases, returning oil to the sump and routing vapors to the air intake for emissions control. When the AOS fails, oil gets pulled into the air intake system. Early signs include, smoke from the exhaust on cold start, a check engine light, and fouled O2 sensors. A complete failure produces thick white smoke from the exhaust all the time.

AOS Failure Risks

A failing AOS can also cause excessive crankcase vacuum, potentially damaging the rear main seal – an issue seen in other VAG group engines. It can also throw off fuel mixtures, leading to over-fueling and bigger engine problems.

Given the age of the transmission in the 996, some wear is inevitable. Check the smoothness of changing through the gears. Worn transmissions will have a significantly notchy feeling and difficulty finding the next gear. Also, a worn transmission will often pop out of gear under acceleration. A manual transmission fluid change should have been completed in the service history by now. Likely, the repair history will also show replacement of the shift linkage cables – if not, it is best to replace them sooner rather than later.

The cables connecting the gear change lever and the transmission on the 996 can often become worn. This results in difficulty engaging gears, sloppy or a vague shifter feel, and a notchy gear shift feeling. Check the history on the car and see if the shifter cables have been replaced. If not, we suggest changing them sooner rather than later for an improved driving experience.

Options for Changing Shifter Cables

There are updated Porsche cables available and a series of aftermarket options designed to improve the shifting feel. Most include metal bushing kits, more adjustment range, and are an improvement on the original cables. The addition of a short throw shifter also significantly improves the 996 gear change.

Clutch life varies by driver, therefore, the more owners, the more variation — some fail by 15K miles, others last over 100K. Signs of wear include slipping (high revs, no acceleration) and a burning smell. Judder on clutch release may indicate oil contamination.

A slipping clutch can quickly damage the flywheel, adding $700 in parts if replaced together — which is recommended. Check service history and expect clutch work eventually on any used manual transmission 996.

The Tiptronic transmission in the 996 is generally very reliable and relatively straightforward to repair. Fluid maintenance at appropriate time or mileage is critical. Often, maintenance has been neglected because of lower mileage. On a used 996 with Tiptronic, it’s important to understand the maintenance history and catch up fluid service if necessary. Known issues include the following:

• Symptoms: Delayed gear changes, rough shifts, or failure to engage gear.
• Causes: Low or old transmission fluid, worn valve body, or aging valve body solenoids.
• Repairs: Fluid and filter change. In some instances valve body rebuild or replacement.

• Symptoms: Warning lights, limp mode, or erratic behavior after spirited driving.
• Causes: Clogged transmission cooler or radiator, or low fluid level.
• Repairs: Replace the transmission cooler and ensure fluid is at the correct level.

• Symptoms: No response to gear selector, stuck in gear, dash warning lights.
• Causes: Faulty Tiptronic control module, shifter switch, or wiring faults.
• Repairs: Diagnostic scan to locate faults; replace control module or sensor if necessary.

• Symptoms: Shuddering at low speeds, poor acceleration, high RPMs with low power.
• Causes: Worn or failing torque converter lock-up clutch.
• Repairs: Torque converter replacement.

996 Radiator or AC Condenser Leaks

The 996’s front-mounted radiators and A/C condensers sit low and exposed, making them prone to stone damage and debris buildup – especially leaves trapped around the sides.

The ducting to the radiators and condensers should be cleaned regularly or protected with mesh screens. Thorough cleaning requires removing the front bumper – something most owners skip.

When inspecting a 996 for purchase, shine a flashlight into the front air intakes. If you see leaves or buildup, it’s a sign of neglect. Corroded or damaged radiators/condensers can’t be repaired—only replaced.

The water pump is simple to reach under the car and checking the amount of play on the pulley is relatively simple. With the engine running, observe the pulley and see if there is any sign of wobbling. If the pulley wobbles replace the water-pump. Most 996 versions have already completed this work at least once.

A common and frustrating issue with the 996 is a small crack in the coolant reservoir. It often starts with a faint coolant smell while driving and slow fluid loss. The reservoir can suddenly split and dump all the coolant risking engine overheating.

Replacement isn’t costly but is tricky due to the tight engine bay – a big part must come out through a small space. Replacement plastic reservoirs can frustratingly be cheap and not well made, often leading to repeating this job multiple times over the 996 lifecycle.

996 Brake Wear

Brakes on the 996 Carrera are generally excellent. Brake pad material does degrade over time – check on low mileage examples to see when the last brake service was performed. The brake fluid should be changed every few years regardless of mileage.

A complete brake service with pads, rotors and sensors can be quite expensive. So, if you’re buying from a used car vendor, look for new pads on old rotors. Both the pads and rotors should always be changed at the same time. Used car centers are famed for just replacing the pads and leaving on the old rotors. “The car has new brakes” – not if the rotors weren’t changed it doesn’t.

This can be particularly unpleasant when driving! The 996 Carrera came with drilled rotors. Look carefully to see how clear the drill holes are and make sure there are no cracks between the drill holes. Cracks between the drill holes can lead to a much bigger crack developing and rotor failure very quickly under heavy braking.

996 Cabriolet Top Issues

Test the cabriolet top thoroughly to ensure smooth operation. Many issues with the top are minor but can be frustrating if discovered on your first sunny day drive. Early 996 cabriolet top mechanisms had non-serviceable parts – check if upgrades or repairs to the cabriolet top mechanism is in the car’s history.

Check for Water Leaks

Inspect the car for water leaks, especially behind the driver seat. Blocked sunroof or cabriolet top drains can cause water to enter the cabin and damage electronic modules. Clearing drains is easy; neglecting them is costly.

996 Suspension Issues

The 996 suspension is extremely durable. However, rubber bushings and struts can be worn with age. Listen for clunks or squeaks and check for fluid leaks from suspension struts. The most common issues are as follows:

Worn Control Arm Bushings

• Symptoms: Clunking noise over bumps, uneven tire wear, loose steering feel.
• Cause: Original rubber bushings degrade over time.
• Fix: Replace control arms or bushings. Many owners upgrade to polyurethane or monoball bushings for improved precision.

Failed Lower Control Arms

• Symptoms: Clunking, instability under braking, poor alignment retention.
• Fix: Replace with OEM or upgraded units

Top Mounts / Strut Mounts

• Symptoms: Squeaking, clunking over bumps, poor ride quality.
• Fix: Replace top mounts when changing struts/shocks. Consider GT3 mounts or aftermarket alternatives for improved feel.

Worn or Leaking Shocks or Struts

• Symptoms: Bouncy ride, nose dive when braking, poor cornering stability.
• Fix: Replace shocks. Many aftermarket options available.

Sway Bar End Links & Bushings

• Symptoms: Clunks or rattles during cornering.
• Fix: Replace worn end links or sway bar bushings. Consider adjustable end links if running coilovers or lowered ride height.

Alignment & Ride Height Issues

• Symptoms: Pulling to one side, excessive inner tire wear.
• Fix: Get a professional alignment, ideally from a Porsche specialist. Many 996s are misaligned due to aged components.

996 Excessive Rear Tire Wear

Uneven tire wear, especially on the inner rear shoulders, often points to worn rear control arms, aggressive camber settings, and poor alignment. Replacing rear tires is expensive.

Check tire DOT dates — anything over 5 years old should be replaced, even if tread looks good. Low-mileage cars often have old, degraded tires that can fail despite the minimal wear level.

By now, most 996s have exceeded factory mileage intervals by age. Maintenance should be based on elapsed time and physical inspection, not just mileage. We recommend working with a specialist Porsche shop from our list to assess maintenance needs based on condition and elapsed time. Our guide to maintenance on the 996 covers everything you need to know about servicing your 996. If you have further questions or concerns about the maintenance requirements of your 911 996, you may find answers that can help you further in our guide to 911 maintenance service questions.

Many dealerships are limiting service to newer vehicles, often turning away Porsche models over 10 years old due to a lack of technicians trained on older cars. In contrast, independent shops usually have decades of experience, offer a more personalized service, and often allow customers to see and understand the work being done on their car first-hand. We recommend you use a local recommended Porsche repair shop for your 996.

Create a maintenance plan based on inspections and the advice from a repair shop. We recommend you budget $80 a month for routine service, covering annual, intermediate, and major maintenance over four years. Plan extra for tires and brakes based on mileage and condition.

Parts availability for the Porsche 911 996 is very good. Porsche has supported the 996 well through its Porsche Classic parts program. Many original parts were revised and reused on the later chassis such as the 997. Many components are still in production or at least readily available through after-market suppliers. Parts that are harder to find include interior trim components, cabriolet motors and sensors, headlights, and infotainment systems.

Once you’ve found a potential 996, your first step should be a thorough inspection by a Porsche specialist. A pre-purchase inspection (PPI) can uncover hidden mechanical issues that aren’t obvious at a glance. It’s important to use a competent and experienced shop to perform the PPI. Providing the shop with any known repair or maintenance history on the car will help them in a detailed assessment.

The inspection should uncover the details of the mechanical wear on the 996 and the general condition. What you also want to know from the report is what’s next. Before making the purchase, you want to know the extent of maintenance work needed on the car in the next few years. Use our maintenance guide for the 996 to map the history to your next maintenance steps. You also want to know the age and health of the battery and the DOT on the tires.

Before buying any car, it’s crucial to check when the OBD fault codes were last cleared and to verify the emissions monitor status. A seller can easily clear codes just before your test drive, which also resets the emissions monitors to “not ready.” A good PPI should tell you this information.

Since emissions tests require multiple drive cycles, hidden issues may not reappear for many miles. During a PPI the shop should confirm that the emissions system shows “ready” – this indicates the car has been driven enough since the last reset and isn’t hiding recent faults.

Over-Rev Counter

Revving an engine to the red line is safe and even healthy for the 996 engines when done correctly. A proper gear change at redline may briefly raise RPM slightly—this is normal and harmless. However, selecting the wrong gear (like downshifting instead of upshifting) can cause the engine to over-rev way beyond the red line. This common mistake, known as a miss-shift, has led to catastrophic engine failures in many Porsches.

Recorded Events

Fortunately, Porsche’s engine management system logs key data, including engine over-rev events. The ECU permanently records engine hours and when these events occurred.

There are six over-rev levels, from minor redline hits to extreme, potentially engine-damaging RPM spikes. Lower-level events often just show spirited driving, but higher-level over-revs may indicate serious stress and events that could shorten the engine life. During a PPI you want to know what over-rev details are recorded in the ECU.

Many Porsche owners enjoy track days, where gear changes often occur near redline. These can trigger entries in the lower over-rev ranges, which are logged by the ECU. Multiple entries in these lower levels may suggest frequent track use, offering insight into how hard the car has been driven—and how well it may have been cared for over time. Discuss and take the opinion of a specialist Porsche shop based on the over-rev detail stored in the car you want to purchase.

There are often very genuine reasons why a car is for sale. We all move on, however, older cars are often put up for sale when mechanical issues are deemed too expensive. Did deep and if possible, understand why the car is for sale.

If you’re buying from a used car dealer, find out where they sourced the 996. A Porsche-focused dealer is a good sign. But if the dealer typically sells budget minivans, proceed with caution. Who trades in a Porsche at a used car lot that doesn’t specialize in them? Often, it’s someone offloading a car with hidden issues, betting the dealer won’t notice. Do your homework.

Most cars are advertised using the model year or registration year. This can be misleading. The production year runs August through July. That means cars produced in August through December are described as the following year’s production e.g. September 2001 production is often called a 2002 model year car.

Actual Production Date Matters

The simple answer is parts. The actual production date is critical to understand the components fitted on the car. In the 996 case, the change in IMS bearings for example happened in a specific production window. Knowing the actual production date for the 996 can help you determine the real value of the car.

High speed freeway driving versus around town local driving can have a serious influence on the overall engine and transmission condition. Long drives at higher speeds tend to produce less wear as opposed to lots of cold starts and short journeys. Look at the location of the owners and make a judgement based on the mileage recorded over the time the owner used the car.

While low mileage on a 996 is appealing, it can come with its own set of issues. Infrequent use often means missed service intervals, leading to age-related wear in fluids, seals, tires, brakes, and clutch components. Lack of maintenance based on time is risky. For example, spark plugs should be replaced every 10 years, regardless of mileage, and brake fluid flushed every 2–3 years. Tires too may have good remaining tread but can still be unsafe if over 5 years old.

Low-mileage cars often demand a premium but be sure to budget for catch-up maintenance after your purchase.

For most Porsche cars, especially 20 year + 996s, the number of previous owners matters less than the car’s maintenance history and overall condition. What really matters is how long the owners had the car and how well they took care of it. If you see an increasing number of owners over a decreasing amount of time, that may well be a sign of neglect.

There are several good ways to check the title status on a vehicle available. All you need is the vin number.

• National Motor Vehicle Title Information System (NMVTIS) – Government-backed, very reliable
• Carfax – Detailed history reports
• AutoCheck – Similar to Carfax
• VINCheck (NICB) – Free check for theft/salvage

Understanding where the car has been in the country can give you some clues as to its use history. Cars in the south are likely to have been driven regularly as the weather does not preclude the enjoyment of the 996. However, cars in northern states are often stored during the wintertime and experience a good amount of months without being driven. Climate too can be a factor. Hot and dry versus high humidity has different effects on the health of rubber components and filters.

This is a common question and not one that is easily answered. All 996 model year production has potential issues that you should pay close attention to. Turbo and GT cars have very few manufacturing issues but can have use-related issues. The later production 996 cars are more desirable but are still at risk for major failures without preventative work and good maintenance.

Recommended Porsche Repair Shops You Can Trust

We researched the whole country to identify local Porsche repair shops that you can trust with your car. Our recommended Porsche repair shops, service centers, mechanics, and specialists provide Porsche repair, service, maintenance, diagnostics, and classic Porsche restoration services that can help you.

All generations of the 996 are easy to drive, park and have fun in. The ride quality and handling improved through the versions, but even the original 996 is bags of fun to drive. The early version is somewhat under powered, and the auto transmission is sluggish. Later versions, especially the 3.6L S, certainly have a bit more zip about them. The 996 is more raw and closer to the air-cooled experience than the later cars.

Original versions have plastic interior parts that can easily become discolored due to wear and tear. The HVAC digital screen is prone to losing parts of digits, which leaves you wondering just what setting you really are looking at. However, there is a healthy used parts market that can solve some of those problems easily and cost effectively. Generally, the 996 interior is well laid out and practical. The later versions have better styled interiors than the original, however, the inside is more focused on practicality as opposed to luxury.

If you buy a manual transmission car, the biggest change you can make to the livability of the car is to install a short throw shifter. The distance between gears on the manual trans 996 is not that different from a bus! A short shifter improves the feel of the car tremendously and reduces the likelihood of missing a gear during the long travel from first to second for example.

The 996 has large Porsche N rated tires. If the car you buy has 19-inch rims, you’ll be looking at more than $1k for a set of 4 tires. The rear tires will wear quicker than the fronts on the 996 due to suspension setup. It’s important to stay on top of vehicle alignment – any loss of alignment on the rear of the 996 will eat the inner shoulder of the rear tire rapidly. This is difficult to see because it’s so far under the car but check it regularly or you’ll be buying rear tires way more often than you expect.

If your ownership plans include heading out for a track day (HPDE), then the 996 can be a lot of fun. On track, the car is easy to drive quickly, right up to the point where it will swap ends on you! Getting the most out of the 996 on track involves learning where the end swapping point is and what to do when it comes up. At this point, the best thing to do is give it more gas – which happens to be the opposite of what your life saving instincts tell you! Really pushing a 996 to the limit on track requires skill and a large set of gentleman’s attachments!

There are still several manufacturers that support the 996 for upgrades such as wheels, exhaust, intake systems etc. In addition, many of the body panels, spoilers or bumper assemblies from later model versions are interchangeable with early models.

Third Radiator Upgrade

One of the easiest and most effective upgrades to make to a 996 is to add the third coolant radiator if the car is not fitted with it as standard. The third radiator helps keep engine temperatures down and may contribute to better engine performance and longevity.